Kente Cloth & Traditional Dress

Traditional Ghanaian Clothing: The Story of Kente Cloth

Kente cloth is Ghana’s iconic handwoven textile, recognized globally as a symbol of African cultural dress. Traditionally the royal cloth of the Ashanti and Ewe, Kente now embodies national pride, appearing on garments, graduation stoles, and art around the world

Watch Documentary Film that showcases Ghanas Kente Cloth

The name “Kente” comes from the Akan word “Kenten” (basket), referencing its woven pattern For centuries, every aspect of Kente – color, pattern and even the accompanying proverbs – has carried meaning.

Gold or yellow threads denote wealth, royalty and purity, green signifies growth and renewal red embodies blood, passion or sacrifice, blue conveys peace and harmony and black often represents spiritual strength or unity with ancestors In Kente traditions, patterns themselves are “woven proverbs”: for example, the Mpatapo motif symbolizes reconciliation, and Adinkrahene (from Adinkra symbolism) means greatness Another well-known design is “Owu nhye da” – “death has no fixed date” – reminding wearers of life’s unpredictability These embedded messages link Kente to Ghana’s rich oral heritage (see Language & Storytelling), making each cloth a tapestry of culture.

Kente Cloth Meaning: Symbolism of Colors and Patterns

Each Kente cloth tells a story. Beyond individual colors, the way they combine carries significance. Bright color palettes generally express joy and celebration, while darker stripes (especially black or deep red) may signal grief or solemn respect. Traditionally, a cloth’s “story” is chosen to fit the occasion.

For instance, cloths with many vivid colors are chosen for festivals, weddings and naming ceremonies, symbolizing life and vitality Specific named patterns often reference proverbs or historical events. For example, an Ewe design called “Emaa Da” means “it has not happened before,” celebrating innovation

Asante weavers name motifs after Akan symbols and sayings: the Adinkrahene pattern (meaning greatness) draws on a royal Adinkra symbol, while the Mpatapo design (reconciliation) is based on a proverb about healing disputesl In this way, wearing Kente is like wearing a statement – one of unity with Ghana’s history and values.

Weaving Process and Origins in Ashanti and Ewe Communities

Watch How Kente Cloth is weaved in the beautiful city of Bonwire

Kente is created on a horizontal strip loom, an age-old method shared by Ashanti and Ewe weavers. On a wooden frame, dozens of vertical warp threads are held under tension. Foot pedals (treadles) attached to heddles lift selected threads, while a shuttle carries the weft thread through the shed, interlacing warp and weft

Each woven strip is only about 10 centimeters (4 inches) wide strips are later sewn edge-to-edge to form a large cloth. This labor-intensive craft is handed down through apprenticeships. As one source notes, “the weaver divides the warp threads…using a shuttle…to insert the weft…producing vibrant patterned strips that are later sewn together”

The process is highly collaborative: entire villages—from cotton farmers to dyers—often participate in preparing threads and natural dyes before a master weaver brings the cloth to life

The historical origins of Kente are rooted in both myth and reality. Ashanti legend tells of two brothers (Nana Kuragu and Ameyaw) who watched a spider’s web at night and learned to weave the intricate patterns, presenting the new cloth to Asantehene Osei Tutu in the 18th century

However, archaeological and oral evidence suggests weaving existed long before. Textiles with strip-weave techniques date back to antiquity among Akan and Ewe peoplesIn fact, Kente’s name itself derives from “kɛtɛ-kɛtɛ” in Ewe, meaning a well-woven cloth Thus, while Bonwire (near Kumasi) is celebrated as the birthplace of Kente weaving in Ashanti tradition, the craft was likely shared across West Africa. Today Bonwire remains a weaving center (see below) and UNESCO has even inscribed Ghana’s traditional Kente weaving on its Intangible Cultural Heritage list, recognizing the knowledge transfer across generations

Kente is woven in both Ashanti (Bonwire, Adanwomase) and Ewe (Agotime/Kpetoe) communities. In Bonwire, tourists can tour weaving workshops and see looms at work

Volta Region towns like Kpetoe and Agotime are equally renowned for Ewe Kente, where visitors can observe weavers using similar narrow-frame looms. In both areas, the same meticulous technique is used: brightly colored silk or cotton threads are interlaced one shuttle-run at a time, and each motif emerges through alternating color patterns

As one authority notes, “no two [Kente] are the same; each is created through a complex interplay of the warp and weft Weaving is still considered an artisan skill often confined to men, while women traditionally handle spinning and dyeing the yarn

Through this time-honored process, centuries of Ghanaian symbolism are literally woven into cloth.

Kente in Ceremonies and Festivals

Watch A video of How Kente is Used in Traditional weddings

Kente is most visible in Ghanaian public ceremonies and rites of passage. Royals and chiefs were historically its exclusive patrons, and this tradition continues in chieftaincy events. For example, during the Ashanti Adae Kese (Great Adae) festival, the Asantehene and Ashanti royals wear a special “Adweneasa” Kente reserved for that occasion

More broadly, Kente cloth signals importance in any ceremony. Brides and grooms wear vibrant Kente at traditional weddings, parents swaddle newborns in it during naming ceremonies, and black-dominant Kente is worn at funerals as a sign of respect

At enstoolment rites (chief installations), cloths are often draped on the chief or presented as symbols of office. Even today, the Ghanaian president and elders don Kente at national events to honor tradition.

Bright Kente graces Ghana’s many festivals: the Kente Festival in Bonwire (Ashanti) and the Agbamevo Festival in Agotime (Volta) feature parades, drumming and mass wearing of Kente. During these, speed-weaving contests and cloth displays celebrate the fabric’s heritage

At funerals in Ghanaian culture, mourners often dress in darker Kente hues (with black or deep brown) to mark the occasion

In contrast, national holidays, education graduations, and naming ceremonies burst with colorful Kente. The pervasive use of Kente in these contexts makes it inseparable from Ghanaian celebrations (see our Festivals & Ceremonies page for more). Its role is so central that even abroad, Ghanaian diaspora communities feature Kente in their own events – from festivals in New York and London to college graduation ceremonies (where African-American students wear Kente stoles)

Kente’s ceremonial power is widely recognized: “There is immense pride in wearing Kente,” one weaver explains, noting that it “is a very powerful statement of cultural identity and celebration of heritage”

Whether at the annual Kente Festival in Bonwire or an Ashanti durbar, the cloth’s presence affirms Ghana’s history and unity. Visitors may even see Kente at modern national events or religious festivals like Akwasidae, underscoring its blending of sacred and social significance

Ashanti vs. Ewe Kente: Regional Styles and Symbolism

While Ashanti (Akan) and Ewe Kente share the same origins, subtle distinctions exist. Ashanti Kente tends to have symmetrical, geometric patterns derived from Adinkra or local symbolism, reflecting the centralized Asante empire’s formal style. In contrast, Ewe Kente cloth (known locally as Ghana-mate or Agbamevo) incorporates a wider variety of motifs – including representational images like drums, stools or animals – that often reflect everyday life

The Asante tradition placed strict taboos on who could wear certain patterns or colors; Ewe Kente was historically more accessible to non-royalty, though still a prestige cloth

Regional festivals highlight this diversity. In Agotime/Kpetoe, the Agbamevo Festival (named for the Ewe word for loom-cloth) attracts weavers and buyers every year by contrast, Bonwire’s Kente Festival in Ashanti showcases new designs from master weaver

Tourists can experience both styles: in Bonwire, workshops demonstrate Ashanti techniques in Kpetoe, weaving centers display Ewe methods and products Despite differences, all genuine Kente is made by hand in Ghana. (Unlike printed “African prints,” true Kente’s intricate handwoven texture is distinctive

Together, the Ashanti and Ewe variants reinforce Kente’s status as Ghana’s national regalia – each reflecting the region’s culture while contributing to a unified heritage.

Modern Use: African Cultural Dress, Fashion, and Identity

Kente cloth today extends far beyond Ghana’s borders as a beloved African cultural dress. In Ghana, young people wear tailor-made Kente outfits for graduations and celebrations. Internationally, Kente-inspired patterns appear in global fashion and design.

African diaspora communities have adopted Kente as a symbol of pride: many American and European graduates drape Kente stoles at commencement, and political figures sometimes wear Kente ties or sashes at global events This modern usage echoes Kente’s original role as a statement of identity.

As one Ghanaian merchant notes, “The pride in wearing Kente stems from its deep-rooted history and skilled craftsmanship. Each piece tells a story”

At the same time, Ghana’s own designers incorporate Kente colors and motifs into contemporary clothing, merging tradition with new styles. Kente school uniforms and accessories are common, helping transmit heritage to younger generations.

In education and media, Kente imagery is used to teach history and proverbs. It remains a living art: master weavers in Kumasi and Accra continue to innovate new patterns that speak to today’s values.

As an American academic observes, Kente “went from being a Ghanaian symbol to being a symbol in the United States of asserting African and African-American identity”

This global embrace ensures Kente’s traditions will endure well into the future.

Where to Buy Kente in Ghana: Markets, Workshops, and Festivals

For travelers wanting authentic Kente, the best places are the weaving towns and markets. Bonwire (15 km from Kumasi) is the traditional heart of Ashanti Kente.

The Bonwire weaving center is open daily (9am–5pm) for visitors to watch artisans at work

Tour packages often include Bonwire: tourists can tour community workshops, meet master weavers, and even try threading a loom

Bonwire also holds an annual Kente Festival showcasing new cloth designs Nearby Kumasi has large markets (e.g. Kejetia, Kumasi Central) where traders sell Kente strips or finished cloth.

In the Volta Region, Kpetoe and Agotime villages are known for Ewe Kente. At Kpetoe’s weaving cooperative, dozens of looms produce the colorful cloth – tourists can visit the open-air center and negotiate buys directly with weavers

Abenyinase village (nearby) has hundreds more outdoor weaving stalls. Kpetoe also hosts the annual Agbamevo Za (Kente) Festival each August, featuring speed-weaving contests and cloth competitions – a vivid way to experience the craft.

In Accra, major markets are convenient for buying Kente products. Makola Market in the city center has shops and stalls overflowing with Kente fabric and garments

The Arts Centre (near Kwame Nkrumah Memorial) is a curated craft market: its handicraft association shops sell handwoven Kente clothing, stoles, and souvenirs. The Arts Centre is also a good spot to find wax prints and tie-dye, but Kente vendors here guarantee Ghanaian-made goods. For higher-end shopping, boutiques in Accra (e.g. Kente Hemaa or Kente Emporium) offer tailor-made dresses and accessories from Kente cloth.

Wherever you buy, always ask if the cloth is handwoven (authentic) and be prepared to haggle politely – bargaining is part of the market culture.

By purchasing Kente directly from weavers or reputable vendors, tourists support Ghanaian artisans and take home a true piece of its heritage. Visitors should also enjoy Ghanaian festivals and cuisine to enrich the experience: Festivals & Ceremonies (see page) often feature Kente parades and traditional food, and learning the local proverbs (Language & Storytelling) adds meaning to each pattern. Whether worn on a visit or kept as a souvenir, an authentic Kente cloth carries with it the history and heart of Ghana’s culture.

Related Reading: For more on Ghana’s cultural celebrations, see our [Festivals & Ceremonies] page. Discover Ghanaian traditional foods on our [Ghanaian Cuisine] page, and explore the meanings behind local proverbs in [Language & Storytelling].